mercoledì 21 aprile 2010

A Walk in Umbria: from Spoleto city center to Monteluco

A Walk in Umbria: from Spoleto city center to Monteluco
by Silvia Matricardi

Umbria is definitely a land for walking people. First of all because many of the oldest and more characteristic places, like castles, historical centres and churches can be reached only on foot. Second, because all of its territory is rich in beautiful paths that pass through olive grows, hills, valleys, woods, along the rivers and on mountaintops, that make the richness of our Region. While walking across or along all of them you can spot amazing views or sites.
From Citerna through Perugia and Assisi runs the Via Francigena, that leads to Rome: along ancient itineraries, for visitors and locals who want to taste and enjoy a different way of travelling. We are talking about trips that can become walks into hidden paths and places of the spirit; journeys of legs, heart, eyes and soul.
Since our childhood we have been taking walks all over Umbria: on Mount Subasio, around Perugia and along the banks of Tevere river, at Isola Maggiore in the middle of Trasimeno Lake, in Forca Canapine inside Sibillini Mountains Park, Around Arrone and Piediluco Lake, on Monti Martani and Montefalco, around Gubbio and Pietralunga or Trevi and Poreta. The important thing when you do it, is: walk with open eyes and be open to encountering other walkers, being part of the surroundings and meeting with yourself.

One walk that we know very well and strongly suggest is the one that starts in Spoleto city centre, goes around Rocca Albornoziana, across Ponte delle Torri and leads up to Monteluco, the mountain that dominates Spoleto.
There are many reasons to go up to Monteluco, on foot or by car, which we will expose in another article.
We took the walk a few days ago. Departing from Piazza Campello (just above the Spoleto Town Hall and the Duomo: two beautiful places you want to take a glimpse at, anyway) you can take Giro della Rocca (a walkway opened up in 1817 around the base of the Fortress) in both directions: if you take left you have a great view of Spoleto, Trevi, Assisi and, only on clear days, of Perugia.
We took right; we passed in front of Hotel Gattapone, a characteristic hotel standing on the cliff facing Ponte delle Torri. From the hotel lobby, bar room and some of the rooms, you can enjoy the greatest possible view of Ponte delle Torri. They have windows as big as the rooms wall and all you see is the green of the wood, the bridge and the Church of San Pietro. A great place for honeymoons and peaceful evenings and nights. The hotel has been named after Matteo Gattapone, the architect from Gubbio who was entrusted by Cardinal Albornoz to design the Rocca Albornoziana in1358.
Immediately after having passed the hotel you start seeing Ponte delle Torri in front of you; this bridge is 236 m long and 76 m high and is supported by mighty arches sitting on magnificent stone piers. A road and an aqueduct built into the stone construction run along the top. There is much debate about when the Tower Bridge was built. However, most scholars agree that it was ordered by Albornoz and developed by Gattapone out and on top of an aqueduct dating back to Roman times. Given its obvious strategic importance, the Bridge was defended by towers (hence its name) both in the Fortress and in the small Mill Fortress that stands on the opposite side.
We crossed the bridge and lingered to take a look down: the view is breathtaking and can be a little scary. To tell the truth this bridge has been the set of several tragic events, which have seen desperate people jump down from it. That’s why the City of Spoleto decided to close the big window on the right side of the bridge with a thick glass…let’s hope this measure reaches the goal!
As soon as you cross the bridge the landscape totally changes: you pass from city center to the wood. And the wood is lovely: it is ancient and very much respected by people. It is not so thick, which allows you to see things at distance in the middle of it; given their age many trees are crooked and shaped oddly. Like any other wood it is full of life, bird calls, crackling and rustling; then, if you are lucky enough, you might spot squirrels, several kinds of birds and rarely, especially in the evening, wild boars. You are surrounded by nature’s timeless music. That’s the reason why we like taking this path; otherwise there is also a bus going up and down 3 or 4 times a day from Spoleto city center.
The way up to Monteluco can be covered in about one hour: it is quite steep as you pass from an altitude of 300meters on sea level in Spoleto city center to 800 in Monteluco top. During the way you pass next to villas immersed into the vegetation, with wonderful views of the Spoleto valley. You can also meet expert bikers (the track is not suited for beginners) and rarely horse riders.
Once you get on top you can relax and lay down on the big lawn, continue walking through the several tracks, or take the walk that goes up to the hamlet of Patrico, or have a picnic in the wooden tables and benches under the trees, get a drink in a local restaurant and spend the night in one of the two hotels open all year long. One of the hotels’ restaurant serves good meals and great pizza.
Anyway, we usually go to Monteluco as it is mainly a site with a spiritual value: it is the home of the friars of Saint Francis Convent and of the evergreen holm-oaks Sacred Wood. According to historical records Saint Francis visited the Convent in 1218. Both the Sacred Wood and the Convent can be visited and we assure you that once you get up there, surrounded by nature’s beauty and sounds, between the stone walls of the cloister or amongst the trees of the Sacred Wood, it’s not hard to get in peace with the world and with yourself.

1 commento:

  1. Taking walks is amazing and healthier, for sure! With such a view, why not take a walk?

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