An apology of Ciambellone - Apologia del Ciambellone

by Silvia Matricardi

There were days when we were kids when since the very first moment you woke up you felt there was something different in the air. And though you couldn’t be absolutely sure about what it was, a remote part of your brain thought it knew the reason, and a very warm part of your pulsating heart strongly hoped that was the reason.
And when you got out of bed, still drowsy, and walked into the kitchen, you would guess the answer to your question by looking at your Mum’s face. She would go: “Guess what Mum has made?”....and you knew you had been right: she had made “Ciambellone”!

Now, this cake deserves a digression: “Ciambellone” is something that was born with you, or rather, it was already there when your memory began to record images, experiences, smells and flavours, and since then it has always been part of your life. Family, mums, grandmas, aunts, friends, would give you Ciambellone for ever: for breakfast, as an afternoon snack and after dinner with warm milk; it was the King of refreshments in all of the childrens’ parties you gave or you were invited to. In short: it has been the leitmotiv of your whole childhood, that’s why it is so dear to almost any of us, Umbrians. For someone it still is a constant factor: my husband for example, who has abundantly passed his thirties, still has it sometimes at night, before going to bed, together with half a glass of warm milk. Just to get ready for sweet dreams. Il lupo perde il pelo ma non il vizio (“The leopard never changes his spots”)!

Now that we are grown-ups mums, aunts, grandmas are no longer in the mood for making Ciambellone for us, of course. Therefore we have been forced to learn how to make it ourselves: it’s the hard law of jungle.
And, as we are lucky enough to go round with many people from many parts of Italy and Umbria, with different cultural backgrounds and lifestyles, our experience of Ciambellone has been widened and enriched through the years, with the result that the basic version of our family’s recipe has been contaminated: which now makes us experts of Ciambellone.

We picked up 4 of the many versions of it we can make: the basic, the one with yoghurt, the light and the organic one.

(Part 2 with recipes will follow)

Apologia del Ciambellone

di Silvia Matricardi

Quando eravamo bambini c’erano giorni in cui dal primo momento in cui ci si svegliava si sentiva che c’era qualcosa di diverso nell’aria. E sebbene non si potesse essere sicuri di cosa fosse, una remota parte del nostro cervello pensava di conoscere il motivo e una parte molto calda del nostro cuore pulsante sperava fortemente che la ragione fosse proprio quella.
E quando uscivi dal letto con gli occhi ancora impastati di sonno ed entravi in cucina potevi indovinare la risposta alla tua domanda dal viso di della tua Mamma. Lei diceva: “Indovina un po’ che ha fatto Mamma?” … e sapevi già che avevi indovinato: aveva fatto il “Ciambellone”!
Ora, questa torta merita una digressione: il “Ciambellone” è qualcosa che è nato con te, o meglio, c’era già quando la tua memoria ha cominciato a registrare immagini, esperienza, profumi e sapori, e da allora ha sempre fatto parte della tua vita. La famiglia, le mamme, le nonne, le zie, gli amici ti davano sempre il Ciambellone: per colazione, per merenda e dopo cena con un bicchiere di latte caldo; era il Re dei rinfreschi in tutte le feste per bambini a casa tua or alle quali venivi invitato. In breve: è stato il leitmotiv di tutta la tua infanzia, ecco perché è così caro ad ognuno di noi Umbri, o quasi. Per qualcuno è ancora una costante: mio marito, per esempio, che ha abbondantemente superato la trentina, lo magia ancora a volte la sera, prima di andare a letto, con mezza tazza di latte caldo. Giusto per prepararsi a fare sogni d’oro. Il lupo perde il pelo ma non il vizio!

Or ache siamo cresciuti le mamme, le zie e le none non hanno più voglia di fare il Ciambellone per noi, naturalmente. Perciò abbiamo dovuto imparare a farcelo da soli: è la dura legge della giungla. E, visto che siamo abbastanza fortunate da frequentare molte persone che provengono da diverse parti dell’Italia e dell’Umbria, appartenenti a diversi sistemi culturali e con stili di vita differenti, la nostra esperienza del Ciambellone si è ampliata ed arricchita negli anni, con il risultato che la versione base della ricotta di famiglia è stata contaminate: il che ci rende oggi degli esperti di Ciambellone.
Abbiamo scelto 4 delle molte versioni che sappiamo fare: quella base, quella con lo yogurt, quella dietetica e quella biologica.

(seguirà Parte 2, con ricette)

A light supper

A light supper

By Silvia Matricardi

There are periods in your life when you spend a lot of time sitting at tables, whether it is in a restaurant or at home or at friends’ home, enjoying lots of great food. Not that you don’t like it, on the contrary, you get addicted to having sumptuous dinners and lunches. Anyway, a certain moment arrives when you have to say BASTA and have a light meal.
We have just come out of a time of the year when we have had plenty of delicious dishes: Christmas, Easter, asparagus time, wine and food tastings, etc., and now, very often, we feel the urge to have light meals, based mainly on vegetables and food “in the raw”.

Yesterday evening, for example, we were in the mood for a light supper; luckily we had already boiled some vegetables the day before, so the preparation was “light” too.
That’s what we had: a mixed vegetables soup with extra virgin olive oil and a toasted slice of bread, bruschetta with ricotta cheese spread on top and some cooked wild herbs (Cicoria di campo).

It might sound banal, after all the delicious recipes we gave you lately, but I assure you that our light supper was delicious and very healthy. Take a look at it.

Life’s good, take it easy!

A day (or more!) of PURE relax, In Umbria

A day (or more!) of PURE relax, In Umbria

by Irene Matricardi

Do you ever happen to need some time just for yourself? Well, if you do there is a place you definitely have to know...

Close to Perugia, Umbria main city, there is a small relais which is certainly worthy of your time...
You need to drive just few km up to the small village of Torgiano and, on top of the hill you will find this small and rustic complex. The main block includes a beautiful and small hall with big sofas made in old leather and a big round fireplace in the middle of the room. From here you have access to the Spa: massage, body scrub, sauna are only few of the many treatments you can enjoy here; and the personnel is very professional.

The whole atmosphere leads to abandonment: tranquillity, a background of light music, the materials and colours which make the furnishings and incredible scents which pervade the rooms. To be enjoyed alone or in good company.
After having had all of this I strongly suggest you to go back to the hall and seat close to the big windows for a cup of tea or, even better, a good glass of Prosecco...I guarantee that the portion will be abundant and the view...simply fantastic! You will be surrounded by olive trees and, as a lover's embrace, by the beautiful Umbrian countryside.

If you want to stay longer than one day, you can rent one of the typical apartments located all around the property and maybe take the chance to play tennis or to swim in the pool, even at night maybe. Anyway, whatever will be your choice, don’t forget to dine at the restaurant...You will enjoy delicious Umbrian food, which will definitely make it a very special day at leisure.

(Pictures taken from the Relais' fan page on Facebook)

A Walk in Umbria: from Spoleto city center to Monteluco

A Walk in Umbria: from Spoleto city center to Monteluco

by Silvia Matricardi

Umbria is definitely a land for walking people. First of all because many of the oldest and more characteristic places, like castles, historical centres and churches can be reached only on foot. Second, because all of its territory is rich in beautiful paths that pass through olive grows, hills, valleys, woods, along the rivers and on mountaintops, that make the richness of our Region. While walking across or along all of them you can spot amazing views or sites.
From Citerna through Perugia and Assisi runs the Via Francigena, that leads to Rome: along ancient itineraries, for visitors and locals who want to taste and enjoy a different way of travelling. We are talking about trips that can become walks into hidden paths and places of the spirit; journeys of legs, heart, eyes and soul.
Since our childhood we have been taking walks all over Umbria: on Mount Subasio, around Perugia and along the banks of Tevere river, at Isola Maggiore in the middle of Trasimeno Lake, in Forca Canapine inside Sibillini Mountains Park, Around Arrone and Piediluco Lake, on Monti Martani and Montefalco, around Gubbio and Pietralunga or Trevi and Poreta. The important thing when you do it, is: walk with open eyes and be open to encountering other walkers, being part of the surroundings and meeting with yourself.

One walk that we know very well and strongly suggest is the one that starts in Spoleto city centre, goes around Rocca Albornoziana, across Ponte delle Torri and leads up to Monteluco, the mountain that dominates Spoleto.
There are many reasons to go up to Monteluco, on foot or by car, which we will expose in another article.
We took the walk a few days ago. Departing from Piazza Campello (just above the Spoleto Town Hall and the Duomo: two beautiful places you want to take a glimpse at, anyway) you can take Giro della Rocca (a walkway opened up in 1817 around the base of the Fortress) in both directions: if you take left you have a great view of Spoleto, Trevi, Assisi and, only on clear days, of Perugia.
We took right; we passed in front of Hotel Gattapone, a characteristic hotel standing on the cliff facing Ponte delle Torri. From the hotel lobby, bar room and some of the rooms, you can enjoy the greatest possible view of Ponte delle Torri. They have windows as big as the rooms wall and all you see is the green of the wood, the bridge and the Church of San Pietro. A great place for honeymoons and peaceful evenings and nights. The hotel has been named after Matteo Gattapone, the architect from Gubbio who was entrusted by Cardinal Albornoz to design the Rocca Albornoziana in1358.
Immediately after having passed the hotel you start seeing Ponte delle Torri in front of you; this bridge is 236 m long and 76 m high and is supported by mighty arches sitting on magnificent stone piers. A road and an aqueduct built into the stone construction run along the top. There is much debate about when the Tower Bridge was built. However, most scholars agree that it was ordered by Albornoz and developed by Gattapone out and on top of an aqueduct dating back to Roman times. Given its obvious strategic importance, the Bridge was defended by towers (hence its name) both in the Fortress and in the small Mill Fortress that stands on the opposite side.
We crossed the bridge and lingered to take a look down: the view is breathtaking and can be a little scary. To tell the truth this bridge has been the set of several tragic events, which have seen desperate people jump down from it. That’s why the City of Spoleto decided to close the big window on the right side of the bridge with a thick glass…let’s hope this measure reaches the goal!
As soon as you cross the bridge the landscape totally changes: you pass from city center to the wood. And the wood is lovely: it is ancient and very much respected by people. It is not so thick, which allows you to see things at distance in the middle of it; given their age many trees are crooked and shaped oddly. Like any other wood it is full of life, bird calls, crackling and rustling; then, if you are lucky enough, you might spot squirrels, several kinds of birds and rarely, especially in the evening, wild boars. You are surrounded by nature’s timeless music. That’s the reason why we like taking this path; otherwise there is also a bus going up and down 3 or 4 times a day from Spoleto city center.
The way up to Monteluco can be covered in about one hour: it is quite steep as you pass from an altitude of 300meters on sea level in Spoleto city center to 800 in Monteluco top. During the way you pass next to villas immersed into the vegetation, with wonderful views of the Spoleto valley. You can also meet expert bikers (the track is not suited for beginners) and rarely horse riders.
Once you get on top you can relax and lay down on the big lawn, continue walking through the several tracks, or take the walk that goes up to the hamlet of Patrico, or have a picnic in the wooden tables and benches under the trees, get a drink in a local restaurant and spend the night in one of the two hotels open all year long. One of the hotels’ restaurant serves good meals and great pizza.

Anyway, we usually go to Monteluco as it is mainly a site with a spiritual value: it is the home of the friars of Saint Francis Convent and of the evergreen holm-oaks Sacred Wood. According to historical records Saint Francis visited the Convent in 1218. Both the Sacred Wood and the Convent can be visited and we assure you that once you get up there, surrounded by nature’s beauty and sounds, between the stone walls of the cloister or amongst the trees of the Sacred Wood, it’s not hard to get in peace with the world and with yourself.

A "Strangozzi Laboratory" in the open air

A “Strangozzi Laboratory” in the open air

by Silvia Matricardi

During Spoleto Tipica, the fair of the typical products of Umbrian culinary tradition, that is periodically organized by the City of Spoleto, we had a lot of fun this year.
Most of the activities have been organized in the open air, all around the city center; the consequence was that a small city like this, always silent and cozy, got transformed, with hundreds of people walking all over, up and down from Corso Garibaldi to Corso Mazzini, in order to attend all the events located in squares, narrow streets and hidden corners.
We spotted one of them and had we had a lot of fun!

It was an open air “Strangozzi Laboratory”, one of those you have to get dirty with!
It started at 4pm in Piazza della Genga, under a big gazebo. Some long tables had been set by the organizers; each of them had 7 or 8 wood boards and rolling pins, with eggs, water, flour, salt: all the tools and ingredients to make “Strangozzi” pasta. A local well known association, that organizes also the Asparagus Sagra, held the lecture: four very energetic and expert Ladies, who have surely been making home made pasta for ages in their own homes, set themselves in front of “pupils”. They gave the instructions while demonstrating how things should be done; and they would pass through the tables, checking and giving precious tips and help to the trainees: the job secrets. It was very well organized and it worked out good, as several people took their just-made Strangozzi home with them. And there were many participants: some were locals, some tousists, many women and several men, most of whom were in their twenties-thirties.

As far as we experienced (‘cause we too got dirty with it, of course!) the hardest thing is to make the dough compact and soft at the same time, without having it sticky or lumpy; the second hardest thing is to flatten it and roll it our without tearing it or letting it stick to the rolling pin; the third is to fold it (you fold it many times, so that when you start slicing it you get long stripes of pasta) without letting each layer of pasta be stuck to the other. And, hey! rolling the pin one thousand times to and fro is a great physical effort and a good exercise for your arms and back!

Anyway, all the guys and ladies did good; some got a little too much help, I must confess; but in the end everybody learned something good and some took their trophy home.

And, last but not least, everybody had one hour or pure, merry, dirty fun!
The motto is “Never underrate the Young: it’s a cooking generation!”
Recipe will follow....

Un “Laboratorio di Strangozzi” all’aria aperta

di Silvia Matricardi

Quest’anno durante Spoleto Tipica, la mostra dei prodotti tipici della tradizione culinaria Umbra che il Comune di Spoleto organizza periodicamente, ci siamo davvero divertiti!
La maggior parte delle attività è stata organizzata all’aria aperta, per tutto il centro storico; la conseguenza è che una cittadina come questa, solitamente silenziosa ed intima, si è trasformata, con centinaia di persone che si spostavano su e giù tra Corso Garibaldi e Corso Mazzini, per partecipare ai vari eventi dislocati nelle piazze, nei vicoli e negli angoli nascosti.
Noi ne abbiamo scovato uno e ci siamo divertiti un mondo!

Si è trattato di un “Laboratorio di Strangozzi” all’aria aperta, uno di quelli in cui ti devi sporcare le mani!
E’ iniziato alle 4 del pomeriggio a Piazza della Genga, sotto un grande gazebo. L’organizzazione aveva sistemato alcuni lunghi tavoli; ognuno di questi ospitava 7 o 8 tavole di legno per la pasta e matterelli, uova, acqua, farina, sale: tutti gli ingredienti e gli strumenti per fare gli “Strangozzi”. Una nota associazione locale, che organizza anche la Sagra degli Asparagi, ha tenuto la lezione: 4 energiche ed esperte Signore, che sicuramente fanno Strangozzi da decenni nelle loro rispettive case, si sono piazzate di fronte agli “alunni”. Hanno poi fornito istruzioni e dimostrazioni pratiche su come le cose andavano fatte; e passavano anche tra i tavoli, controllando e dispensando preziosi consigli e aiuto agli “studenti”: i segreti del mestiere! Il tutto, organizzato molto bene, ha davvero funzionato, visto che diverse persone hanno portato a casa i loro Strangozzi. E c’erano molti partecipanti: alcuni locali, turisti, molte donne e diversi uomini, gran parte dei quali tra i 20 e i 30 anni.

Stando a quanto abbiamo visto (perché anche noi ci siamo sporcati le mani, naturalmente!) la cosa più difficile è fare una pasta compatta e morbida allo stesso tempo, evitando che sia appiccicosa e che abbia dei grumi; la seconda cosa più difficile è appiattirla e stenderla senza strapparla o farla appiccicare al matterello; la terza è piegarla (si piega varie volte, così quando si taglia si ottengono delle lunghe strisce di pasta) evitando che gli strati di pasta si appiccichino gli uni agli altri. E poi, guardate! stendere la pasta avanti e indietro con il matterello un milione di volte è un grande sforzo fisico e un ottimo esercizio per braccia e schiena!

In ogni modo, tutti gli uomini e le donne presenti hanno fatto un buon lavoro, anche se, a dire il vero, alcuni sono stati aiutati un po’ troppo; ma alla fine tutti hanno imparato qualcosa di buono e alcuni hanno portato a casa il loro trofeo. E, il che non è poca cosa, tutti hanno avuto un’ora di puro, allegro e sporco divertimento!
La lezione è “Non sottovalutare mai i Giovani: è una generazione che cucina!”
Seguirà ricetta....

When stone meets wood and fire: an evening In Umbria, with friends...

When stone meets wood and fire: an evening In Umbria, with friends….

by Silvia Matricardi


This is the story of what happens when a place that used to be stalls for cattle is bought by a young couple, renovated and turned into a home.
Umbria, with its hundreds of tiny villages perched all over hills, mountains and valleys, hidden from the sight of the hurrying tourist, is full of stories like this one.

Sometimes it happens that in the middle of the week someone calls you to invite you for dinner in a holiday home, up in the mountains. And you keep waiting all week, anticipating the feelings and warmth you will be sharing with close people.
A young couple has bought the house made of stones one year ago, has been restoring it and restoration is still in progress. But the main facilities are ready and so is the fireplace, so they decide to inaugurate it by giving a “warm up” dinner for a group of very close friends.
And they arrive, friends: they meet around 6pm in town and move towards the house. After visiting it and cogratulating on the good outcome they start preparing.

Some of them go around to gather small firewood (the big logs were already there when the house has been bought), others set the table, experts flavour the meat and prepare the wine. In less than a couple of hours everything is ready and all the guests have made themselves at home. They roast the meat, prepare bruschetta with garlic, salt and extra virgin olive oil, and a salad. Someone brought a bottle of sweet wine and some “tozzetti” biscuits to go with it, which wasn’t a bad idea at all!

Everybody is sitting and having a merry meal; the evening warms up and for the very first time the cold stone which makes the walls and the logs that hold the roof feel the warmth of fire and friendship: and the house becomes a home.

Then someone decides to get out in the garden, while she hears friends chattering inside, as she needs a moment alone, with herself. She lifts her eyes and there they stand in front of her: the Sibillini Mountains, silent, distant, lonely and majestic. And while she is alone with her thoughts, for that very precious minute of her life, she feels all the richness inside and outside herself.
Then she gets inside again, where friends, love and good wine are waiting for her.
And where stone, wood and fire have met, making the warm and perfect atmosphere of countless evenings to come.

The house we are talking about is situated in a small village 8km from Sellano (PG), between Foligno and Valnerina. It stands on a cliff and from the garden you have a great view of the Sibillini Mountains, Mount Vettore and a beautiful valley with a Medieval tower in ruins. Only 4 families live permanently in the village, which makes it a great place to enjoy peace and silence. Two villages are 3 and 5 km away and they host some swimming pools (never too much crowded, to tell the truth), while the shops and restaurants are at 5 minutes by car. The village is surrounded by beautiful woods, full of paths where you can find porcini mushrooms, wild asparagus, berries as well as all sorts of cattle browsing in the meadows. If you rent a bike or bring your own you’ll have a great time.
The owners love to receive friends and friends’ friends.

When you decide to come to Umbria, please, consider staying and being with locals: they are the only ones who can let you “taste” and share the feeling of the real stuff. That is simple and genuine.


Quando la pietra incontra il legno e il fuoco: una serata In Umbria, con gli amici….

di Silvia Matricardi


Questa è la storia di ciò che accade quando un edificio che soleva essere un ricovero per il bestiame viene acquistato da una giovane coppia, ristrutturato e trasformato in una casa.
L’Umbria, con i suoi innumerevoli paesini appollaiati ovunque su colline, montagne e vallate, nascosti all’occhio del turista frettoloso, è piena di storie come questa.

A volte succede che nel mezzo della settimana qualcuno ti chiami al telefono per invitarti a cena nella sua seconda casa, in montagna. E tu aspetti tutta la settimana, pregustando le sensazioni ed il calore che condividerai con dei cari amici.
Una giovane coppia ha comprato la casa di pietra un anno fa, la sta ristrutturando e i lavori sono ancora in corso. Ma i servizi necessari sono già funzionanti e lo stesso vale per il camino, quindi decidono di inaugurarla organizzando una cena di “riscaldamento” per un gruppo di amici molto cari.
E loro arrivano, gli amici: si incontrano intorno alle 18:00 in città e si mettono in moto verso la casa. Dopo averla visitata ed essersi congratulati per i risultati iniziano a preparare. Alcuni di loro vanno a raccogliere un po’ di legna di piccola taglia (i ceppi grandi c’erano già al momento dell’acquisto della casa), altri apparecchiano la tavola, gli esperti condiscono la carne e preparano il vino. In meno di un paio d’ore tutto è pronto e gli ospiti si sentono come a casa propria. Si arrostisce la carne, si preparano le bruschette con aglio, sale e olio extra vergine di oliva, e l’insalata. Qualcuno ha portato una bottiglia di vino dolce e dei tozzetti, che non è stata affatto una cattiva idea!
Tutti siedono e condividono allegramente il pasto; la serata si scalda e per la prima volta la fredda pietra di cui sono fatti i muri e le travi che sorreggono il tetto sentono il calore del fuoco e dell’amicizia: e diventa finalmente una casa.
Poi qualcuno decide di uscire in giardino, per stare un momento da solo con se stesso, mentre dall’interno proviene il chiacchiericcio degli amici. Alza gli occhi ed eccoli lì di fronte: i Monti Sibillini, silenziosi, distanti, solitari e maestosi. Mentre resta solo con i suoi pensieri, per quel prezioso minuto della sua vita, sente tutta la ricchezza che c’è fuori e dentro di lui.
Allora torna dentro, dove gli amici, l’amore e il buon vino lo aspettano.
E dove la pietra, il legno e il fuoco si cono incontrati, creando la calda e perfetta atmosfera di innumerevoli serate a venire.

La casa di stiamo parlando si trova in un paesino ad 8 km da Sellano (PG), tra Foligno e la Valnerina. Si erge su un dirupo e dal giardino si gode una bellissima vista dei Monti Sibillini, del Monte Vettore e di una bellissima valle con una torre medievale diroccata. Solo 4 famiglie vivono stabilmente nel paese, il che lo rende un luogo ideale per godersi la pace ed il silenzio. Due altri paesini si trovano a 3 e 5 Km e lì si possono trovare delle piscine (mai troppo frequentate, a dir la verità), mentre i negozi e i ristoranti sono a 5 minuti di auto. Il paese è circondato da splendidi boschi, pieni di sentieri dove si possono raccogliere funghi porcini, asparagi selvatici, frutti di bosco e incontrare tutti i tipi di animali al pascolo. Se si noleggia una bicicletta o si porta la propria si possono fare delle belle passeggiate.
I proprietari amano ricevere gli amici e gli amici di amici.

Quando decidete di venire in Umbria considerate la possibilità di stare con le persone del luogo e di trascorrere del tempo con loro: sono i soli che possono farvi “gustare” e condividere il senso delle cose autentiche. Che sono semplici e genuine.

Profilo: Silvia and Irene

Silvia Matricardi

Graduated in foreign modern languages and literature with a specialization in intercultural communication she has always dealt with the management of international cultural projects. Keen on travelling since the age of 16 when she took her first tour in the United States West Coast, she has turned her passion into a profession. At present she takes care of the organization and touring for an Umbrian company that produces and exports Opera, for which she has managed concert and opera tours in Europe, Japan, Canada, USA, China, Russia and Qatar. She often travels for work, but once her office’s door closes she loves exploring spots and authentic customs of the places she visits, whether they are on the other side of the World or in Umbria, her land, that she deeply loves.In the past she has also collaborated with two incoming tour operators; she is now studying to acquire the title of touristic operator and deepening her knowledge of Umbria traditions.

Irene Matricardi

After graduating if Modern Foreign Languages, Irene has been developing her passion in travelling, first by living 1 year in Germany, where she has improved her knowledge of the German culture. Afterwards trhough a long journey in Beijing (China) where she has been living, working – and obviously travelling- for nearly 5 years. What she has been enjoying at most during all this time is the international environment around her, the joy of new daily challenges in a different country and culture and last but not least, the pleasure of visiting new beautiful places. No matter where she is going to be in the future…She will keep on travelling.