As if we were visitors: a day with extra virgin olive oil (part one - morning)

by Silvia Matricardi

Past weekend, In Umbria, was one of those dedicated to olive. In fact, this is the time when owners of olive groves all through the region dedicate themselves to the harvesting and, immediately after, to the pressing of olives, in order to extract one of the treausres of our Region: extra virgin olive oil.
That is why, to highlight all the traditions and customs linked to this activity, almost every town and village involved in the production organizes several events.
One of these is Frantoi Aperti (Open Olive Mills).
This year, having a little more time available to nourish our passions, we decided to devote one day to ourselves, as if we were visitors coming to Umbria for the first time; we organized a day of full immersion in the activities promoted by our town, Spoleto, to celebrate the Frantoi Aperti.

In the morning we decided it would be a good idea to visit a family run olive mill, not a big or a famous one, as we were sure that by such a choice we would find an authentic athmosphere and genuine people.

The mill we visited is 10 minutes by car from Spoleto city center. A public shuttle bus organized on purpose picked us up in the city center and led us at destination; we were glad to notice that there were several tourists, a group of about 15 people: we were two of them.
The family which owns the mill has been working and harvesting olive oil since 1762, but now of course they have acquired mechanised techniques and, despite still been placed in the same old house, the production is realized with modern machinery.
A courteous lady welcomed us in a very informal and friendly way and guided us throught the different areas of the mill. She showed us how people can come to the mill, bringing their own olives and wait for the entire process to be over, then go away with their freshly squeezed extra virgin olive oil. And infact there were several farmers waiting to finish their job.

The lady showed us the process through which the olives are turned into extra virgin olive oil: the receipt and storage (no longer than 24 hours), the dumping of olives into a hopper and rolling into the mill, the removal of leaves and sprigs inside the washer, the washing in order to eliminate impurities, the grinding of the whole olives (flesh and stone) through which olives are turned into paste at a room temperature, the transferral of olive paste to the containers and malaxation (slow mixing) of olive paste, the pouring of the paste into the decanter and centrifugal extraction (drinking water is added to separate oil from vegetable water) and finally the centrifugal separation of oil from remaining water. The remaining water and paste is recycled as a fertilizer in the olive groves.

This extracting process is made at a temperature that should never go beyond 25°C and the oil that comes out has got a very bright green colour and a very strong smell. It looks delicious and it has got a bitter taste, stinging your tongue. This is a guarantee of the fact that this oil has kept all of its nutritional factors and vitamines. In fact, in order to make a very good extra virgin olive oil, with a very low acidity factor, they pick up the olives when they are not yet completely ripe and squeeze them within 24 hours at maximum.

When you visit family run olive mill you always get the chance to taste the freshly squeezed oil; and we didn’t make any exception. We were received into a warm and cosy room were a merry fire was crackling in a corner and two ladies were preparing some delicacies to be served to the guests. The athmosphere was very warm and friendly and as they served us they showed us a video about their olive grove and oil making process.

All the dishes were prepared with their freshly squeezed extra virgin olive oil, of course: haricot beans soup, chickpeas soup, lentils soup, bruschetta (of course!!) and “tozzetti” biscuits, all accompanied by a good glass of local red wine.

At the end of the visit you can buy one or two bottles of extra virgin olive oil “on the spot” or you can order some that will be sent directly to your house....or you can just step out after having lived a interesteing, lovely and genuine half-day experience.

The cemetery of Spoleto: a peaceful place

by Silvia Matricardi

Umbria is a region of peace. It is not a place of silence, but a land where the sounds of nature are loud and soft at the same time and we really enjoy listening to them.

One of the most peaceful places I know, one that I really love, is the cemetery of Spoleto.

It must be the architectural structure that makes it so charming, with its surrounding walls, the many paths that climb up the hill, with their rows of cypresses and bushes and wild roses, and also the great view of the city center.

Or, very likely, my love for this place comes from the fact that I have been coming here since a was a child, with my Mum and Dad, to visit the people I love who are no longer with us. I was never scared when I came here; on the contrary, it seemed to me as if I were entering a fairy land, full of small churches, ancient tombs, narrow paths, flowers, old pictures that tell stories of past lives, silence. I often used to sing while walking there with my parents...

I know Umbria is full of old cemeteries but I am sure none of them is like this one.

It is placed right besides the city center and yet in a secluded spot, amongst fields of olive trees, from where you can enjoy a great view of the Rocca and of the sweet hills that surround the town. It goes uphill, gently, creating different terraces of tombs which are always well kept and full of flowers and "lumini" (small lights).

On top you can find the beautiful San Salvatore Basilica, the most ancient church in Spoleto, dating back to the 4th - 5th century, with a nave and two side aisles and a semicircular apse, which still retains its early Christian atmosphere and charm.

Though a cemetery is not the first place you think of visiting when you go to a town, this one might be worth peeping in, just to get a glimpse and to taste an old-times atmosphere.

Last time I went to the cemetery it was four days ago, before All Souls' Day (Il Giorno dei Morti), in a warm sunny day, at lunch break; there were a few people working on their family tombs, preparing them for the celebration of their beloved departed. Every path, narrow street and place was neat and colourful and I could really enjoy a special moment of meditation and prayer, and love for the mankind.

Being close to the people you lost and you still love makes you feel the strength of your roots, the indissoluble bonds in your life and the joy and warmth that accompany life's promises and plans for the future.