As if we were visitors: a day with extra virgin olive oil (part one - morning)

by Silvia Matricardi

Past weekend, In Umbria, was one of those dedicated to olive. In fact, this is the time when owners of olive groves all through the region dedicate themselves to the harvesting and, immediately after, to the pressing of olives, in order to extract one of the treausres of our Region: extra virgin olive oil.
That is why, to highlight all the traditions and customs linked to this activity, almost every town and village involved in the production organizes several events.
One of these is Frantoi Aperti (Open Olive Mills).
This year, having a little more time available to nourish our passions, we decided to devote one day to ourselves, as if we were visitors coming to Umbria for the first time; we organized a day of full immersion in the activities promoted by our town, Spoleto, to celebrate the Frantoi Aperti.

In the morning we decided it would be a good idea to visit a family run olive mill, not a big or a famous one, as we were sure that by such a choice we would find an authentic athmosphere and genuine people.

The mill we visited is 10 minutes by car from Spoleto city center. A public shuttle bus organized on purpose picked us up in the city center and led us at destination; we were glad to notice that there were several tourists, a group of about 15 people: we were two of them.
The family which owns the mill has been working and harvesting olive oil since 1762, but now of course they have acquired mechanised techniques and, despite still been placed in the same old house, the production is realized with modern machinery.
A courteous lady welcomed us in a very informal and friendly way and guided us throught the different areas of the mill. She showed us how people can come to the mill, bringing their own olives and wait for the entire process to be over, then go away with their freshly squeezed extra virgin olive oil. And infact there were several farmers waiting to finish their job.

The lady showed us the process through which the olives are turned into extra virgin olive oil: the receipt and storage (no longer than 24 hours), the dumping of olives into a hopper and rolling into the mill, the removal of leaves and sprigs inside the washer, the washing in order to eliminate impurities, the grinding of the whole olives (flesh and stone) through which olives are turned into paste at a room temperature, the transferral of olive paste to the containers and malaxation (slow mixing) of olive paste, the pouring of the paste into the decanter and centrifugal extraction (drinking water is added to separate oil from vegetable water) and finally the centrifugal separation of oil from remaining water. The remaining water and paste is recycled as a fertilizer in the olive groves.

This extracting process is made at a temperature that should never go beyond 25°C and the oil that comes out has got a very bright green colour and a very strong smell. It looks delicious and it has got a bitter taste, stinging your tongue. This is a guarantee of the fact that this oil has kept all of its nutritional factors and vitamines. In fact, in order to make a very good extra virgin olive oil, with a very low acidity factor, they pick up the olives when they are not yet completely ripe and squeeze them within 24 hours at maximum.

When you visit family run olive mill you always get the chance to taste the freshly squeezed oil; and we didn’t make any exception. We were received into a warm and cosy room were a merry fire was crackling in a corner and two ladies were preparing some delicacies to be served to the guests. The athmosphere was very warm and friendly and as they served us they showed us a video about their olive grove and oil making process.

All the dishes were prepared with their freshly squeezed extra virgin olive oil, of course: haricot beans soup, chickpeas soup, lentils soup, bruschetta (of course!!) and “tozzetti” biscuits, all accompanied by a good glass of local red wine.

At the end of the visit you can buy one or two bottles of extra virgin olive oil “on the spot” or you can order some that will be sent directly to your house....or you can just step out after having lived a interesteing, lovely and genuine half-day experience.

The cemetery of Spoleto: a peaceful place

by Silvia Matricardi

Umbria is a region of peace. It is not a place of silence, but a land where the sounds of nature are loud and soft at the same time and we really enjoy listening to them.

One of the most peaceful places I know, one that I really love, is the cemetery of Spoleto.

It must be the architectural structure that makes it so charming, with its surrounding walls, the many paths that climb up the hill, with their rows of cypresses and bushes and wild roses, and also the great view of the city center.

Or, very likely, my love for this place comes from the fact that I have been coming here since a was a child, with my Mum and Dad, to visit the people I love who are no longer with us. I was never scared when I came here; on the contrary, it seemed to me as if I were entering a fairy land, full of small churches, ancient tombs, narrow paths, flowers, old pictures that tell stories of past lives, silence. I often used to sing while walking there with my parents...

I know Umbria is full of old cemeteries but I am sure none of them is like this one.

It is placed right besides the city center and yet in a secluded spot, amongst fields of olive trees, from where you can enjoy a great view of the Rocca and of the sweet hills that surround the town. It goes uphill, gently, creating different terraces of tombs which are always well kept and full of flowers and "lumini" (small lights).

On top you can find the beautiful San Salvatore Basilica, the most ancient church in Spoleto, dating back to the 4th - 5th century, with a nave and two side aisles and a semicircular apse, which still retains its early Christian atmosphere and charm.

Though a cemetery is not the first place you think of visiting when you go to a town, this one might be worth peeping in, just to get a glimpse and to taste an old-times atmosphere.

Last time I went to the cemetery it was four days ago, before All Souls' Day (Il Giorno dei Morti), in a warm sunny day, at lunch break; there were a few people working on their family tombs, preparing them for the celebration of their beloved departed. Every path, narrow street and place was neat and colourful and I could really enjoy a special moment of meditation and prayer, and love for the mankind.

Being close to the people you lost and you still love makes you feel the strength of your roots, the indissoluble bonds in your life and the joy and warmth that accompany life's promises and plans for the future.

The tradition of "San Giovanni": a natural elixir of beauty

by Silvia Matricardi

In a few weeks it will be San Giovanni’s Day. In our life this day never passes unnoticed on the calendar, for several reasons, mainly linked to the memories of our childhood, when on this occasion our grandmothers let an old tradition come to life again.

San Giovanni’s Day is on June 24th; in Catholic tradition we celebrate the birth of San Giovanni Battista, which happened 6 months before Christ’s. But there is also a pagan tradition linked to this day: the change of direction the sun takes between June 21st and 22nd is seen as a particularly magic moment.

In fact, June 24th , right after summer solstice, is the first day of a new season and just in the short and intense time of its passing, all the plants and herbs on the Earth are influenced by a particular strength and power, are wet with dew and drenched with a new power. Therefore, this is the right time to pick up the plants that will be used in different ways, until next year, when they will be burned in the bonfire and renewed. Besides, according to an old belief, in this day the sun (fire) marries the moon (water): that is why in different parts of Italy people celebrate with rites linked to bonfire and dew, which are deeply rooted in rural and folk tradition.
It is this tradition linked to water and dew which is repeated in some rural areas of Umbria, in several families, amongst which ours.
It is a pure feminine activity which involves different generations: grandmothers, mothers, daughters, cousins, sisters leave in group to reach an unpolluted place not so far away from home. Here, armed with gloves and scissors, they pick up all the ingredients to prepare " San Giovanni water": leaves and flowers of lavender, broom, pennyroyal, wild rose and rosemary. The harvesting process is quite fun and feels a little bit like magic, as it evokes atmospheres and tales that have been handed on through the years in the family, linked to legends of fairies and elfs who used to prepare ointments and potions with different virtues, more or less magic.
Once you pick up a basketful of herbs and fragrant petals you need to put them in a basin full of water and leave them to rest all night, outside your house door. Next morning women take the herbs and petals away and use this water, “San Giovanni water”, to wash their face and body, in order to increase their beauty and protect themselves from illness.

We know that many versions exist when it comes to San Giovanni’s Day traditions; somewhere people light up bonfires the night of the 23rd: fire is considered a purifier, like dew, and you get good luck if you jump across the fire while having clear in your mind the things you want to change in your life; elsewhere “San Giovanni’s herbs", held together in small bunches, are kept under the pillow during the night, in order to have premonitory dreams.

Whatever is the tradition that each family which celebrates San Giovanni’s Day observes, these habits are something precious, which bonds an ancient past to a living present, through centuries of life inside families and local communities; a bond made of affection, warmth, life in common and sharing. That’s why every year at the beginning of June we start getting ready, thinking about the organization of this day, anticipating the sensation of wellness and freshness we are going to feel and share by washing our face with this fragrant elixir, which smells like good things!

La tradizione di “San Giovanni”: un elisir di bellezza naturale
di Silvia Matricardi

Tra qualche settimana sarà la festa di San Giovanni. Nella nostra vita questo giorno non passa mai inosservato sul calendario, per varie ragioni, soprattutto legate ai ricordi della nostra infanzia, quando le nostre nonne, proprio in questa occasione, facevano rivivere una antica tradizione.

La festa di San Giovanni, cade il 24 giugno; nella tradizione cattolica si celebra la nascita di San Giovanni Battista, avvenuta 6 mesi prima di quella di Cristo. Ma c’è anche una tradizione pagana legata a questo giorno: il cambio di direzione che il sole compie, tra il 21 e il 22 giugno, è visto come un momento particolare e magico. Il 24 giugno, infatti, proprio dopo il solstizio d'estate, è il primo giorno di una nuova stagione e proprio nel breve ma intenso arco di tempo in cui esso trascorre, tutte le piante e le erbe sulla terra vengono influenzate con particolare forza e potere, bagnate dalla rugiada e intrise di una potenza nuova. E’ quindi il momento giusto per la raccolta di piante che verranno utilizzate in vari modi sino a quando, il prossimo anno, verranno bruciate nei falò e rinnovate. Inoltre, secondo un’antica credenza, in questo giorno il sole (fuoco) si sposa con la luna (acqua): da qui i riti e gli usi, in voga in varie parti d’Italia, dei falò e della rugiada, presenti nella tradizione contadina e popolare.
Ed è proprio questa usanza, legata all’acqua, che viene ripetuta in alcune zone rurali dell’Umbria, in molte famiglie, tra cui la nostra.
E’ un’attività puramente femminile che coinvolge varie generazioni: nonne, mamme, figlie, cugine, sorelle, partono in gruppo e si recano in un luogo incontaminato non troppo lontano da casa. Qui, armate di guanti e forbici, raccolgono tutti gli ingredienti per preparare "l’acqua di San Giovanni": foglie e fiori di lavanda, ginestra, mentuccia, rosa selvatica e rosmarino. Il processo della raccolta è molto divertente ed ha un sentore quasi magico, poiché evoca le atmosfere e i racconti che si tramandano nella famiglia, legate a storie di fate ed elfi che preparavano unguenti e pozioni con svariate virtù, più o meno magiche. Una volta raccolto un bel cesto di erbe e petali profumati essi vengono riposti in un bacile colmo d'acqua e lasciati riposare per tutta la nottata fuori dalla porta di casa. La mattina successiva le donne tolgono le piante dal bacile e con quest’acqua, “l’acqua di San Giovanni”, si lavano il viso e il corpo, per aumentare la propria bellezza e preservarsi dalle malattie.

Sappiamo esistere molte varianti riguardo alle tradizioni di San Giovanni; da alcune parti si accendono dei falò la vigilia del 24: il fuoco è considerato purificatore come la rugiada ed è ben augurale saltare sul fuoco avendo ben chiare le cose che vorremmo veder cambiare nella nostra vita; da altre parti le "erbe di San Giovanni", legate in mazzetto, vengono messe sotto il guanciale per avere dei sogni premonitori.

Qualunque sia l’uso in ogni famiglia che celebri il Giorno di San Giovanni, queste tradizioni sono qualcosa di prezioso, che lega un passato remoto ad un vivo presente, attraverso secoli di vita vissuta nelle famiglie e nelle comunità locali, un legame fatto di affetto, calore, vita in comune e condivisione. E’ per questo che ogni anno ad inizio giugno cominciamo a prepararci, pensando all’organizzazione di questa giornata e pregustando la sensazione di benessere e freschezza che si prova nel bagnarsi il viso con questo elisir odoroso, che sa tanto di buono!

Penelope lives in Umbria

by Silvia Matricardi

All of you surely know who Penelope is. Just to remind: she is a character of Greek mythology, the wife of Ulisses, the symbol of conjugal faithfulness.

She left happily in Itaca island with her husband until he left her to go fight in the Troy War and she waited 20 years for his return.

During his long absence the island was occupied by Proci, some nobles who asked her hand in marriage; she avoided to give a response by assessing that she had to weave a shroud for her husband’s father and she wouldn’t take another husband until she finished her work. Therefore, for several years, she would weave during the day e un-weave at night; until her husband returned, killed the Proci and got back to his life with her.

But maybe not all of you know that Penelope lives in Umbria too. Better to say, there are many Penelopes in the world and some of them, with different names, of course, left in Umbria centuries ago, while some still do. We are talking about women who are deeply-rooted in their land, who remain faithful to the things they love, whether they are a man or a tradition their mothers and grandmothers have handed on to them; and they take care of these things, doing their best to cherish them and to keep them alive.
We found Penelope in Rasiglia, an hamlet in Umbria at about 18 km from Foligno. It is a pleasant spot indeed: protected by the mountain which contributes to its relative isolation, it stands on a spring at the base of a mansion that once belonged to the Trinci dynasty, when it used to reign over Foligno territory. Tons of water flow through the village with incredible strength, infiltrating through the ancient buildings, emerging and then disappearing, to emerge again somewhere else with all of their vital force. The atmosphere is truly medieval and the constant flowing of the water resounds all over the village, making it a really unique place.
The abundance of water has contributed, through the centuries, to the economic development of the village: the inhabitants, most of whom were millers, learned how to exploit this precious resource by creating watermills for wheat, fulling-mills and woollen mills. But they were also shepherds and they used to work wool; therefore, since ancient times, Rasiglia women dedicated themselves to the art of weaving. One of the two main woollen mills belonged to the Tonti family: their memories of ancient times are gathered in the book “Vita col padre Umberto Tonti” in which they tell their real-life experience as millers and the story and traditions of Rasiglia community.

Wool would be spinned, died and woven through complex and laborious steps, until cloth was ready to be sold or to be transformed into beautiful coverlets, decorated with traditional drawings.
Some of Rasiglia women use ancient methods of weaving still today and (which is really interesting!) they are ready to open their houses’ doors to whoever is interested in knowing more about this art, in order to show their masterpieces and their production methods. It’s the case of Tonti family which also this year, on April 24th and 25th, was the protagonist of the event 'Penelope a Rasiglia' , which represents a unique occasion to watch old hand looms at work and to witness the different phases of the ancient art of weaving.
Unfortunately we could not be there this year, but our friend Corinna Tonti told us what happened: “Our family owns 4 traditional looms dating back to the end of 19th / beginning of 20th century and on April 24th and 25th it has been possible to see one of them working; we also showed a wide private collection of original tools. All around the village the guests could watch several activities going on: photographic exhibitions, display of old blankets and linen sets, shearing of sheep and theatre performances. Many visitors came, especially on Sunday, and the event has been very successful, thanks also to the sunny weather”. The good news is that Tonti family is available to show their activity and tools to interested visitors all year long.

As we said, the art of weaving is deeply rooted in Umbrian popular tradition: it is said that the fairies who used to live in these woods were skilled weavers. We don’t know if these fairies ever existed, maybe they were just women with a “magic touch”; what we know, though, is that when you arrive in Rasiglia you enter a secluded place, protected by rocks and woods, made of stone, of water coming out amongst houses and disappearing again, lullabied by the constant sound of water flowing, which covers any other worldly noise. A sort of magic atmosphere where ancient traditions come alive.

Saturday evening in an old-fashioned Café

by Silvia Matricardi

There are Saturday nights when, after a long, long week full of events, meetings and work, you don’t feel like doing anything special and all you want to do is enjoy the company of a person you love. So, what you choose to do is go to a town near by and watch a movie. What happens then, especially if the movie starts at 8pm, is that you come out of the cinema around ten and you feel a little hungry; anyway, you don’t want to have a big meal or a pizza, you just need something small and delicious, accompanied by a hot or cold beverage. In case you are IN Umbria and all of this is happening to you, that’s what you should do.
Go to Antico Caffè in Piazza della Repubblica, in Foligno city center. This Café is famous for several reasons. The first one is that its furniture has mainly remained as it used to be in the 19th century. The counter dates back to 1890 and it is covered with tin; you can still see the pipes from which the water used to come out. And also the shelves and the product’s jars are those you would find in the 19th century: made of wood, porcelain or glass. At the beginning this used to be a drogheria, a place where you would buy spices: and the spices are still there, only nowadays they cannot be kept loose in big jars, but they must be packed and sealed; that’s why you find many packets of different kind of spices all around the café. The smell must have been great some decades ago, when all the spices were kept in the open air. Anyway, the smell you feel when you get in is great now too and that’s the second reason why this place is so renowned.

They produce their own biscuits, cakes, crostate, muffin and tartes and they serve several kinds of coffe, teas and herb brews. They also have several kinds of craftmade chocolate with different flavours and aromas: with hot pepper, with sweet salt, with fruit - truly delicious! And also confetti, marmelades, liqueurs, candies and several kinds of wine. All the goods and goodies have that special look of original, authentic and very well prepared things, the things made the old way, when people would realize their recipes at home, respecting preparation times and ingredients’ nature and natural rythms.
The athmosfere is old-fashioned and cozy, maybe because the room does not host many tables and all the clients seat in the same room where the counter is and because the owners love to tell the story of the Café. When you seat there, sipping a good cup of coffe, enjoying a slice of cake or some cookies filled with marmelade or muffins made with carrots, coconut and cinnamon, or a glass of wine accompanied by dry biscuits, you have the chance to look everybody in the eyes, sharing the same feeling of fulfilment and pleasure, while feeling away from the noisy, frenzy, always on the run world.

Sabato sera in un Antico Caffè
di Silvia Matricardi

Ci sono alcune serate di sabato in cui, dopo una lunga settimana piena di eventi, riunioni e lavoro, hai voglia di non fare niente di speciale, ma solo di goderti la compagnia di qualcuno che ami. Così decidi di andare in una cittadina vicina e vedere un film. Ciò che accade, specialmente se il film inizia alle 8 di sera, è che si esce dal cinema intorno alle dieci con un certo languorino; e può succedere di non aver voglia di una cena completa, né di una pizza, ma solo di qualcosa di piccolo e squisito, da accompagnare ad una bibita calda o fresca. Nel caso in cui vi trovaste IN Umbria e tutto ciò stesse accadendo proprio a voi, ecco cosa dovreste fare.
Andate all’Antico Caffé in Piazza della Repubblica, nel centro storico di Foligno. Questo Caffè è noto per diversi motivi. Il primo è che il suo arredo è rimasto essenzialmente com’era nel 19° secolo. Il bancone risale al 1890 ed è rivestito di stagno; si possono ancora vedere i tubi dai quali fuoriusciva l’acqua. Ed anche le mensole e i contenitori che raccolgono i prodotti sono quelli che avreste trovato nel 19° secolo: fatti in legno, porcellana o vetro.
All’inizio il locale era nato come drogheria, un luogo in cui si acquistavano spezie: e le spezie sono ancora tutte lì, solamente che ora non possono più essere tenute sfuse in grosse giare, ma devono essere impacchettate e sigillate; questa è la ragione per cui tutto intorno al locale si vedono sacchetti contenenti vari tipi di spezie. L’aroma doveva essere meraviglioso qualche decade fa, quando tutte le spezie venivano tenute sfuse. In ogni modo l’odore che si respira anche oggi entrando è delizioso, ed ecco la seconda ragione per cui il locale è famoso; sono loro a preparare i biscotti, le torte, le crostate, i muffin e i dolcetti, che accompagnano ai caffè, tè e infusi di erbe che servono. Hanno anche diversi tipi di cioccolato preparati artigianalmente con diversi aromi e sapori: con il peperoncino, con il sale dolce, con la frutta – davvero deliziosi! Ed anche confetti, marmellate, liquori, caramelle e svariati tipi di vino. Tutti i prodotti e le squisitezze hanno quell’aria speciale delle cose originali, autentiche e preparate con cura, le cose fatte alla vecchia maniera, quando le persone usavano realizzare le loro ricette a casa, rispettando i tempi di preparazione e la natura e i ritmi naturali degli ingredienti.
L’atmosfera è antica e intima, forse perché la sala non ospita molti tavoli e i clienti siedono nella stessa stanza in cui si trova il bancone, e anche perché i proprietari sono cordiali e amano raccontare la storia del Caffè. Quando siedi lì, sorseggiando una buona tazza di caffè e gustando una fetta di torta o dei biscotti ripieni di marmellata, o dei muffin fatti con carote, cocco e cannella, o un bicchiere di vino accompagnato da biscotti secchi, hai la possibilità di incrociare lo sguardo degli altri ospiti, condividendo la stessa sensazione di appagamento e piacere, sentendoti allo stesso tempo lontano dal quel mondo rumoroso e frenetico che va sempre di corsa.

A special restaurant IN Umbria: "natural creative cooking"

by Silvia Matricardi

Sometimes, during a week full of engagements and duties, you don’t feel like cooking your lunch and all you want is to relax for an hour and a half in a calm, slow place, to be with people with different cultural and linguistic backgrounds, enjoying a good and healthy meal. There are not many places where you can have all of this at the same time without having planned it in advance and without driving for some kilometres. Anyway, we are smart girls and a little lucky too, so we have spotted one of them just by our office: it’s the Ristorante Biologico in Spoleto.
We try to go there at least once a week because we love the food and we like the athmosphere and the friendliness of the owners. Maria Paola and Gianluca have been running the business for a couple of years, introducing in traditional and lazy Spoleto a new proposal of cooking: that to our great pleasure is proving to be very succesfull!
The place is small, with about 20 seats; it is simply furnished, with natural materials such as wood, paper and warm colours; everything gives you the idea of being in a place where things are “raw”, simple and authentic and the food is healthy and prepared respecting ingredients’ nature.
From the sitting area you can see the chef preparing his masterpieces.
When Gianluca, the chef, describes his cooking you can feel his passion and commitment and you can see fire in his eyes; we will have to explain this peculiar way of cooking in a specifi article, in order to convey the deep meaning of this experience. Now, to summarize the message, just in a few sentences: “Food is sacred. When you prepare a dish you have to pay attention to food’s nutritional qualities and you have to respect them. The association of food is very important and so is the way you present it on the plate. Simplicity is a merit, not a fault. Cooking must be performed out of love”.
It is hard to describe what kind of cooking this is: you can call it natural, creative cooking.
You can come here also for breakfast and they will serve you cakes and crostate made with organic ingredients; they also have a mini market, where they sell all sorts of milk - cow milk, rice, soya, and all sorts of food coming from all over the world: a great variety of rice, cereals, sugar, pasta, spices; you cal also find fresh vegetables, tea, yoghurt, natural detergents and many other things.

Take a look at what we had last time we were there for lunch:



Salad mix with fake mayonnaise (and cicoria sauce)







Soup of carrots and savoy in “sweet-strong” (with aniseeds)








Vegetables and poppy couscous flan

Rice and sesame wafer with beetroot and almonds velouté

Chocolate cake with stracciatella yoghurt

Everything tasted great and was “slowly” and carefully prepared. You can judge by the pictures we took.
The dishes not only look good, they taste deliciously! Believe us!

Un ristorante speciale IN Umbria: cucina naturale e creativa

di Silvia Matricardi

A volte nel mezzo di una settimana piena di impegni e doveri non hai voglia di cucinarti il pranzo, vuoi solo rilassarti per un’oretta e mezza in un luogo calmo e “lento”, stare insieme a persone con diversi background culturali e linguistici e gustarti un pasto buono e salutare. Non ci sono molti luoghi dove si può avere tutto questo allo stesso tempo senza averlo programmato in anticipo o senza dover guidare per chilometri. Ma siccome siamo ragazze intelligenti e anche un pochino fortunate ne abbiamo scoperto uno proprio vicino al nostro ufficio: è il Ristorante Biologico di Spoleto.
Cerchiamo di andarci almeno una volta alla settimana poiché ne amiamo la cucina e ci piace l’atmosfera e il calore dei proprietari. Maria Paola e Gianluca gestiscono il locale da circa un paio d’anni ed hanno introdotto nella tradizionale e pigra Spoleto una nuova proposta di cucina: che con nostro grande piacere sta riscuotendo un notevole successo!
Il locale non è grande, con una ventina di posti a sedere; è arredato in modo semplice, con materiali naturali come legno e carta, e colori caldi; tutto dà l’idea di trovarsi in un luogo dove le cose sono “naturali”, semplici e autentiche e il cibo è sano e preparato rispettando la natura degli ingredienti.
Dall’area ristorante si può osservare lo chef mentre prepara i suoi capolavori.
Quando Gianluca, lo chef, descrive la sua cucina si può sentire tutta la passione ed l’impegno che ci mette e si vede il fuoco nei suoi occhi; spiegheremo la sua particolare filosofia culinaria in un articolo specifico, così da comunicare in modo completo il significato profondo di questa esperienza. Per ora ci limitiamo a riassumere il messaggio in poche frasi: “Il cibo è sacro. Quando si prepara un piatto bisogna stare attenti alle qualità nutritive del cibo e bisogna rispettarle. L’associazione degli ingredienti è molto importante e lo stesso vale per il modo in cui essi vengono presentati nel piatto. La semplicità è un pregio, non un difetto. Il cucinare deve essere fatto con amore”.
E’ difficile descrivere che tipo di cucina venga proposto qui: la chiameremo cucina naturale creativa. Si può venire al Biologico anche per colazione, e allora vi serviranno torte e crostate fatte con ingredienti biologici; c’è anche un minimarket in cui vendono svariati tipi di latte – di mucca, di riso, di soia, e vari cibi provenienti da ogni parte del mondo. Una grande varietà di riso, cereali, zucchero, pasta, spezie; si può acquistare anche verdura fresca, tè, yogurt, detersivi naturali e molte alter cose.

Date un’occhiata a ciò che abbiamo mangiato a pranzo l’ultima volta che ci siamo stati:

Insalata mix con finta maionese (e salsa di cicoria)
Zuppa di carote e verza in dolce-forte (con semi di anice)
Sformato di couscous con verdure e papavero
Cialdine di riso e sesamo con vellutata di barbabietole alle mandorle
Cake al cioccolato con yogurt alla stracciatella

Ogni piatto era squisito ed era stato preparato lentamente e con cura. Potete giudicare dalle foto che abbiamo scattato.
Le pietanze non solo erano belle da vedere, erano anche deliziose! Parola nostra!

An Apology of Ciambellone - Part 2

by Silvia Matricardi

(following from article "An Apology of "Ciambellone" - Part. 1)

We picked up 4 of the many versions of it we can make: the basic, the one with yoghurt, the light and the organic one.

We would love it if you would cook them and give us feedback on your outcome, impressions and liking factor. Buon appetito!

Version 1 – The basic
250gr of sugar, 250gr of flour for cakes (in Italy is the “00” kind), 130gr of natural water, 130gr of extra virgin olive oil, 3 whole eggs, 1 packet of baking powder (about 16 gr), vanilla spice. At first beat the eggs with the sugar until the mixture becomes foamy; then add all the ingredients; add the baking powder at last. Take a baking-pan, butter it, pour the mixture inside and put in the oven at 180°C for about 40 minutes. Check if it is ready by sticking a long toothpick inside it: if it remains dry it means it is ready; otherwise cook a little more. As soon as it is done, take it out of the oven, to avoid its drying up.

Version 2 – Soft, with yoghurt
150gr of yoghurt (any flavour would do), 2 whole eggs, 300gr of flour “00” kind, 150gr of sugar, 75gr of extra virgin olive oil, 1 packet of baking powder (about 16 gr). At first mix eggs and yoghurt; then add all the other ingredients; add the baking powder at the end. Butter a baking-pan and pour the mixture into it. Cook in the oven at about 180°C for no longer that 40 minutes. Check if it is ready by sticking a long toothpick inside it: if it remains dry it means it is ready; otherwise cook a little more. As soon as it is done, take it out of the oven, to avoid its drying up.

Version 3 – Light
3 whole eggs, 300gr of flour “00” kind, 150gr of sugar, 50gr of extra virgin olive oil, 1 packet of baking powder (about 16 gr), vanilla spice, the grated pealing of 1 non treated lemon, natural water as much as needed to obtain a fluid mixture. At first mix eggs and sugar; then add all the other ingredients; add the baking powder at the end. Butter a baking-pan and pour the mixture into it. Cook in the oven at about 180°C for no longer that 40 minutes. Check if it is ready by sticking a long toothpick inside it: if it remains dry it means it is ready; otherwise cook a little more. As soon as it is done, take it out of the oven, to avoid its drying up.

Version 4 – Organic
4 whole eggs, the grated pealing of two non-treated lemons, 180gr of “mascobado” sugar (raw sugar), 1 glass of sunflower seeds cold pressed, 1 glass of rice milk, half a glass of apple or carrot juice, 3 packets of cream of tartar (about 17gr each), flour “00” kind as much as it necessary to obtain a fluid mixture, a pinch of cinnamon in powder. Take a baking-pan, butter it, pour the mixture inside and put in the oven at 155°C for about 40 minutes. As soon as it is done, take it out of the oven, to avoid its drying up.
This version can be varied by adding cocoa powder, dried fruit, nuts, chestnuts or other spices.

Oh! I forgot to tell you. Do you know how I like having Ciambellone best? Any of the above mention versions, sliced thick, with an abundant spread of Nutella on top. Make sure Nutella is well fluid and creamy, not just come out of the fridge; it must be doughy and melt into the pores of the Ciambellone slice. I just eat it pure, like this; it’s so immoral and so immediately satisfactory: it just runs right to your heart, healing your soul and rewarding your brain.
I know it does not sound neither traditional nor typical: bust it just sounds so much like Me!

Apologia del "Ciambellone" - Parte 2

di Silvia Matricardi

(segue da "Apologia del "Ciambellone" - Parte 1)

Abbiamo scelto 4 delle molte versioni che sappiamo fare: quella base, quella con lo yogurt, quella dietetica e quella biologica.

Ci piacerebbe molto se voleste provare a farle per poi farci sapere come è andata, darci le vostre impressioni e il fattore di gradimento. Buon appetito!

Versione 1 – Base
250gr di zucchero, 250gr dif aria per dolci (in Italia è il tipo “00”), 130gr di acqua naturale, 130gr di olio extra vergine di oliva, 3 uova intere, 1 bustina di lievito in polvere (circa 16 gr), vanillina. Inizialmente sbattere le uova con lo zucchero finché il composto non diventa spumoso; in seguito aggiungere tutti gli altri ingredienti, unendo il lievito alla fine. Prendere una teglia da forno, imburrarla, versavi il composto e mettere in forno a 180°C per circa 40 minuti. Controllare se è pronto inserendo uno stuzzicadenti all’interno: se resta asciutto significa che è pronto; altrimenti cuocere ancora per qualche minuto. Appena è pronto toglierlo dal forno per evitare che si asciughi troppo.

Versione 2 – Soffice, con lo yogurt
150gr di yogurt (a qualsiasi di gusto), 2 uova intere, 300gr di farina tipo “00”, 150gr di zucchero, 75gr di olio extra vergine di oliva, 1 bustina di lievito in polvere (circa 16 gr). All’inizio sbattere le uova con lo yogurt; poi aggiungere tutti gli altri ingredienti, lasciando il lievito alla fine. Prendere una teglia da forno, imburrarla, versavi il composto e mettere in forno a 180°C per al massimo 40 minuti. Controllare se è pronto inserendo uno stuzzicadenti all’interno: se resta asciutto significa che è pronto; altrimenti cuocere ancora per qualche minuto. Appena è pronto toglierlo dal forno per evitare che si asciughi troppo.

Versione 3 – Light
3 uova intere, 300gr di farina tipo “00”, 150gr di zucchero, 50gr di olio extra vergine di oliva, 1 bustina di lievito in polvere (circa 16 gr), vanillina, la buccia grattugiata di un limone non trattato, acqua naturale quanto basta per formare un composto fluido. All’inizio sbattere le uova con lo zucchero; poi aggiungere tutti gli altri ingredienti, lasciando il lievito alla fine. Prendere una teglia da forno, imburrarla, versavi il composto e mettere in forno a 180°C per al massimo 40 minuti. Controllare se è pronto inserendo uno stuzzicadenti all’interno: se resta asciutto significa che è pronto; altrimenti cuocere ancora per qualche minuto. Appena è pronto toglierlo dal forno per evitare che si asciughi troppo.

Versione 4 – Organic
4 uova intere, la buccia grattugiata di due limoni non trattati, 180gr di zucchero “mascobado” (zucchero grezzo), 1 bicchiere di olio di semi di girasole spremuto a freddo, 1 bicchiere di latte di riso, mezzo bicchiere di succo di mela o di carota, 3 bustine di cremortartaro (circa 17gr l’una), farina tipo “00” quanto basta per ottenere un composto fluido, una presa di cannella in polvere. Prendere una teglia da forno, imburrarla, versavi il composto e mettere in forno a 155°C per circa 40 minuti. Appena è pronto toglierlo dal forno per evitare che si asciughi troppo.
Questa versione può essere variata aggiungendo polvere di cacao, frutta secca, noci, nocciole o altre spezie.

Ah! Dimenticavo. Sapete come mi piace di più mangiare il Ciambellone? Una qualsiasi delle varianti sopra menzionate, tagliato spesso, con sopra un abbondante strato di Nutella. Fate attenzione a che la Nutella sia ben fluida e cremosa, non come appena uscita dal frigo; deve essere pastosa e fondersi nei pori del Ciambellone. Io lo mangio così, puro; è così immorale e così immediatamente appagante: va dritto al cuore, curando le ferite dell’anima e ricompensando il cervello.
Lo so che la cosa non suona molto tradizionale, né tipica: ma suona tanto come Me!

An apology of Ciambellone - Apologia del Ciambellone

by Silvia Matricardi

There were days when we were kids when since the very first moment you woke up you felt there was something different in the air. And though you couldn’t be absolutely sure about what it was, a remote part of your brain thought it knew the reason, and a very warm part of your pulsating heart strongly hoped that was the reason.
And when you got out of bed, still drowsy, and walked into the kitchen, you would guess the answer to your question by looking at your Mum’s face. She would go: “Guess what Mum has made?”....and you knew you had been right: she had made “Ciambellone”!

Now, this cake deserves a digression: “Ciambellone” is something that was born with you, or rather, it was already there when your memory began to record images, experiences, smells and flavours, and since then it has always been part of your life. Family, mums, grandmas, aunts, friends, would give you Ciambellone for ever: for breakfast, as an afternoon snack and after dinner with warm milk; it was the King of refreshments in all of the childrens’ parties you gave or you were invited to. In short: it has been the leitmotiv of your whole childhood, that’s why it is so dear to almost any of us, Umbrians. For someone it still is a constant factor: my husband for example, who has abundantly passed his thirties, still has it sometimes at night, before going to bed, together with half a glass of warm milk. Just to get ready for sweet dreams. Il lupo perde il pelo ma non il vizio (“The leopard never changes his spots”)!

Now that we are grown-ups mums, aunts, grandmas are no longer in the mood for making Ciambellone for us, of course. Therefore we have been forced to learn how to make it ourselves: it’s the hard law of jungle.
And, as we are lucky enough to go round with many people from many parts of Italy and Umbria, with different cultural backgrounds and lifestyles, our experience of Ciambellone has been widened and enriched through the years, with the result that the basic version of our family’s recipe has been contaminated: which now makes us experts of Ciambellone.

We picked up 4 of the many versions of it we can make: the basic, the one with yoghurt, the light and the organic one.

(Part 2 with recipes will follow)

Apologia del Ciambellone

di Silvia Matricardi

Quando eravamo bambini c’erano giorni in cui dal primo momento in cui ci si svegliava si sentiva che c’era qualcosa di diverso nell’aria. E sebbene non si potesse essere sicuri di cosa fosse, una remota parte del nostro cervello pensava di conoscere il motivo e una parte molto calda del nostro cuore pulsante sperava fortemente che la ragione fosse proprio quella.
E quando uscivi dal letto con gli occhi ancora impastati di sonno ed entravi in cucina potevi indovinare la risposta alla tua domanda dal viso di della tua Mamma. Lei diceva: “Indovina un po’ che ha fatto Mamma?” … e sapevi già che avevi indovinato: aveva fatto il “Ciambellone”!
Ora, questa torta merita una digressione: il “Ciambellone” è qualcosa che è nato con te, o meglio, c’era già quando la tua memoria ha cominciato a registrare immagini, esperienza, profumi e sapori, e da allora ha sempre fatto parte della tua vita. La famiglia, le mamme, le nonne, le zie, gli amici ti davano sempre il Ciambellone: per colazione, per merenda e dopo cena con un bicchiere di latte caldo; era il Re dei rinfreschi in tutte le feste per bambini a casa tua or alle quali venivi invitato. In breve: è stato il leitmotiv di tutta la tua infanzia, ecco perché è così caro ad ognuno di noi Umbri, o quasi. Per qualcuno è ancora una costante: mio marito, per esempio, che ha abbondantemente superato la trentina, lo magia ancora a volte la sera, prima di andare a letto, con mezza tazza di latte caldo. Giusto per prepararsi a fare sogni d’oro. Il lupo perde il pelo ma non il vizio!

Or ache siamo cresciuti le mamme, le zie e le none non hanno più voglia di fare il Ciambellone per noi, naturalmente. Perciò abbiamo dovuto imparare a farcelo da soli: è la dura legge della giungla. E, visto che siamo abbastanza fortunate da frequentare molte persone che provengono da diverse parti dell’Italia e dell’Umbria, appartenenti a diversi sistemi culturali e con stili di vita differenti, la nostra esperienza del Ciambellone si è ampliata ed arricchita negli anni, con il risultato che la versione base della ricotta di famiglia è stata contaminate: il che ci rende oggi degli esperti di Ciambellone.
Abbiamo scelto 4 delle molte versioni che sappiamo fare: quella base, quella con lo yogurt, quella dietetica e quella biologica.

(seguirà Parte 2, con ricette)

A light supper

A light supper

By Silvia Matricardi

There are periods in your life when you spend a lot of time sitting at tables, whether it is in a restaurant or at home or at friends’ home, enjoying lots of great food. Not that you don’t like it, on the contrary, you get addicted to having sumptuous dinners and lunches. Anyway, a certain moment arrives when you have to say BASTA and have a light meal.
We have just come out of a time of the year when we have had plenty of delicious dishes: Christmas, Easter, asparagus time, wine and food tastings, etc., and now, very often, we feel the urge to have light meals, based mainly on vegetables and food “in the raw”.

Yesterday evening, for example, we were in the mood for a light supper; luckily we had already boiled some vegetables the day before, so the preparation was “light” too.
That’s what we had: a mixed vegetables soup with extra virgin olive oil and a toasted slice of bread, bruschetta with ricotta cheese spread on top and some cooked wild herbs (Cicoria di campo).

It might sound banal, after all the delicious recipes we gave you lately, but I assure you that our light supper was delicious and very healthy. Take a look at it.

Life’s good, take it easy!

A day (or more!) of PURE relax, In Umbria

A day (or more!) of PURE relax, In Umbria

by Irene Matricardi

Do you ever happen to need some time just for yourself? Well, if you do there is a place you definitely have to know...

Close to Perugia, Umbria main city, there is a small relais which is certainly worthy of your time...
You need to drive just few km up to the small village of Torgiano and, on top of the hill you will find this small and rustic complex. The main block includes a beautiful and small hall with big sofas made in old leather and a big round fireplace in the middle of the room. From here you have access to the Spa: massage, body scrub, sauna are only few of the many treatments you can enjoy here; and the personnel is very professional.

The whole atmosphere leads to abandonment: tranquillity, a background of light music, the materials and colours which make the furnishings and incredible scents which pervade the rooms. To be enjoyed alone or in good company.
After having had all of this I strongly suggest you to go back to the hall and seat close to the big windows for a cup of tea or, even better, a good glass of Prosecco...I guarantee that the portion will be abundant and the view...simply fantastic! You will be surrounded by olive trees and, as a lover's embrace, by the beautiful Umbrian countryside.

If you want to stay longer than one day, you can rent one of the typical apartments located all around the property and maybe take the chance to play tennis or to swim in the pool, even at night maybe. Anyway, whatever will be your choice, don’t forget to dine at the restaurant...You will enjoy delicious Umbrian food, which will definitely make it a very special day at leisure.

(Pictures taken from the Relais' fan page on Facebook)

A Walk in Umbria: from Spoleto city center to Monteluco

A Walk in Umbria: from Spoleto city center to Monteluco

by Silvia Matricardi

Umbria is definitely a land for walking people. First of all because many of the oldest and more characteristic places, like castles, historical centres and churches can be reached only on foot. Second, because all of its territory is rich in beautiful paths that pass through olive grows, hills, valleys, woods, along the rivers and on mountaintops, that make the richness of our Region. While walking across or along all of them you can spot amazing views or sites.
From Citerna through Perugia and Assisi runs the Via Francigena, that leads to Rome: along ancient itineraries, for visitors and locals who want to taste and enjoy a different way of travelling. We are talking about trips that can become walks into hidden paths and places of the spirit; journeys of legs, heart, eyes and soul.
Since our childhood we have been taking walks all over Umbria: on Mount Subasio, around Perugia and along the banks of Tevere river, at Isola Maggiore in the middle of Trasimeno Lake, in Forca Canapine inside Sibillini Mountains Park, Around Arrone and Piediluco Lake, on Monti Martani and Montefalco, around Gubbio and Pietralunga or Trevi and Poreta. The important thing when you do it, is: walk with open eyes and be open to encountering other walkers, being part of the surroundings and meeting with yourself.

One walk that we know very well and strongly suggest is the one that starts in Spoleto city centre, goes around Rocca Albornoziana, across Ponte delle Torri and leads up to Monteluco, the mountain that dominates Spoleto.
There are many reasons to go up to Monteluco, on foot or by car, which we will expose in another article.
We took the walk a few days ago. Departing from Piazza Campello (just above the Spoleto Town Hall and the Duomo: two beautiful places you want to take a glimpse at, anyway) you can take Giro della Rocca (a walkway opened up in 1817 around the base of the Fortress) in both directions: if you take left you have a great view of Spoleto, Trevi, Assisi and, only on clear days, of Perugia.
We took right; we passed in front of Hotel Gattapone, a characteristic hotel standing on the cliff facing Ponte delle Torri. From the hotel lobby, bar room and some of the rooms, you can enjoy the greatest possible view of Ponte delle Torri. They have windows as big as the rooms wall and all you see is the green of the wood, the bridge and the Church of San Pietro. A great place for honeymoons and peaceful evenings and nights. The hotel has been named after Matteo Gattapone, the architect from Gubbio who was entrusted by Cardinal Albornoz to design the Rocca Albornoziana in1358.
Immediately after having passed the hotel you start seeing Ponte delle Torri in front of you; this bridge is 236 m long and 76 m high and is supported by mighty arches sitting on magnificent stone piers. A road and an aqueduct built into the stone construction run along the top. There is much debate about when the Tower Bridge was built. However, most scholars agree that it was ordered by Albornoz and developed by Gattapone out and on top of an aqueduct dating back to Roman times. Given its obvious strategic importance, the Bridge was defended by towers (hence its name) both in the Fortress and in the small Mill Fortress that stands on the opposite side.
We crossed the bridge and lingered to take a look down: the view is breathtaking and can be a little scary. To tell the truth this bridge has been the set of several tragic events, which have seen desperate people jump down from it. That’s why the City of Spoleto decided to close the big window on the right side of the bridge with a thick glass…let’s hope this measure reaches the goal!
As soon as you cross the bridge the landscape totally changes: you pass from city center to the wood. And the wood is lovely: it is ancient and very much respected by people. It is not so thick, which allows you to see things at distance in the middle of it; given their age many trees are crooked and shaped oddly. Like any other wood it is full of life, bird calls, crackling and rustling; then, if you are lucky enough, you might spot squirrels, several kinds of birds and rarely, especially in the evening, wild boars. You are surrounded by nature’s timeless music. That’s the reason why we like taking this path; otherwise there is also a bus going up and down 3 or 4 times a day from Spoleto city center.
The way up to Monteluco can be covered in about one hour: it is quite steep as you pass from an altitude of 300meters on sea level in Spoleto city center to 800 in Monteluco top. During the way you pass next to villas immersed into the vegetation, with wonderful views of the Spoleto valley. You can also meet expert bikers (the track is not suited for beginners) and rarely horse riders.
Once you get on top you can relax and lay down on the big lawn, continue walking through the several tracks, or take the walk that goes up to the hamlet of Patrico, or have a picnic in the wooden tables and benches under the trees, get a drink in a local restaurant and spend the night in one of the two hotels open all year long. One of the hotels’ restaurant serves good meals and great pizza.

Anyway, we usually go to Monteluco as it is mainly a site with a spiritual value: it is the home of the friars of Saint Francis Convent and of the evergreen holm-oaks Sacred Wood. According to historical records Saint Francis visited the Convent in 1218. Both the Sacred Wood and the Convent can be visited and we assure you that once you get up there, surrounded by nature’s beauty and sounds, between the stone walls of the cloister or amongst the trees of the Sacred Wood, it’s not hard to get in peace with the world and with yourself.