Roveja from Castelluccio: the official recipe

by Silvia Matricardi

In our last article we talked about a typical legume of Valnerina-Castelluccio area that we just discovered: the roveja.

We had the chance to try it on the spot, one stormy day in Castelluccio, with a group of American guests.

It was delicious on bruschetta; that’s why we asked for the recipe.
We got it and immediately after we cooked it ourselves.

That’s the outcome.

And this is the official recipe.

Dose for six people

500 gr of roveja
Extra virgin olive oil
Celery, onions, 3 spoonful of peeled tomatoes
Salt
Hot pepper
Unsalty bread


Soak the roveja in water with some coarse salt for about 12 hours. Put the salty water and the roveja in a pot and let cook for 2 hours.
In a pan prepare a “soffritto”, that is: slice onions and celery, add some peeled tomatoes (just a little) and hot pepper and let fry for some minutes in a little bit of extra virgin olive oil.
Drain the roveja and add it to the “soffritto”.

Let cook another 10-15 minutes.

Slice some unsalty bread and roast it; add the roveja on top of each slice and season with a little extra virgin olive oil.
Serve immediately, before the bread gets cold.

This plate would normally be part of an antipasto-course or, together with some vegetables, it can be a perfect light dinner or lunch.

We are sure that there are several other ways of cooking roveja. One of them, we guess, could be to prepare it, like we would do with lentils, in a soup. You would only have to avoid draining the roveja after having boiled it: you would have to pour it into the soffritto together with its boiling water and let cook for another 15-20 minutes to let amalgamate. Then serve it in bowls and season with some extra virgin olive oil.

We are going to try it soon, as we, being 100% Umbrians, love legumes soups, especialy in cold and rainy days like the ones we are having now, here IN Umbria.

Thanks to Gianni and "La vostra cantina" for giving us the recipe.

And there comes the legume: the roveja!

by Silvia Matricardi

Most of you probably know that the area of Valnerina-Castelluccio is famous for the production of legumes. We, Umbrians, have been eating lots of legumes since our early childhood, as they are a highly nutritious and healthful food that brings very high quality proteins to the body.
Anyway, even after more than 30 years of eating legumes, sometimes it happens that you find out one that you have never had before, which has been the basic element of nourishment for many of your fellow Umbrians.

The occasion was given to us by a group of 15 guests visiting our region a couple of weeks ago.
We took them to Castelluccio, a beautiful place IN Umbria (see details on our article “Castelluccio dressing white”, dated March 23rd 2010), for a glance at the beautiful plateau and a taste of our typical products.
And there we found it: the roveja.
And we immediately became visitors ourselves, eager to know more about it.
And to have it, of course!

The roveja (pisum arverse) is a small wild pea which can be called also by different names, such as roveglia, corbello, pea of the fields, rubiglio. It can be found in Valnerina area and in the past it represented mountain people’s essential means of nourishment, together with other legumes and cereals. They told us that local people were eating a lot of it at the beginning of the 20th century, when our country was going through a severe period of hunger; when bad times were over people were so sick of eating it that they would not want to have it anymore. So the cultivation was abandoned (also because of the difficult processes related to its harvest).

It spontaneously grows on the slopes or in the fields at an altitude between 600 to 1200m, it is harvested between the end of July and the beginning of August and threshed like lentils are. It has got coloured seeds tending from dark green to browning-grey or red.
Roveja can be consumed in the form of soups or ground into flour between stones.

That day in Castelluccio our host, Gianni (whose father manages the Consorzio for the protection of local legumes), served it as part of our antipasto-course, on a slice of bruschetta (roasted bread) cooked in the traditional way.
It was delicious: its taste reminds a little of lentils, maybe a little stronger, as it is a very tasty legume.

Which was the perfect food for a stormy day like that one was.

We immediately got a pack of roveja together with the official recipe, which we are going to try soon. And write an article about, of course!

Our American friends did the same and so I like to imagine that these days in some homes all over Massachussets, Pennsylvania and Florida, some lucky families are having their own roveja for dinner and tasting a little of far-off, wholesome Umbria.

P.S. By the way, did you know that besides most common legumes such as lentils, chickpeas and beans there are many others, typical of different areas in Umbria? We found out some of them: the risina, the bean of the eye or monachella, the bean of Cave, the roveja (of course!) and the cicerchia. Do you know other legumes?


Specific information about roveja has been taken from “Enogastronomicae” edited by Sistema Turistico Locale Valli e Monti dell’Umbria Antica.

PANE, PROSCIUTTO E FANTASIA: A SUNNY AFTERNOON IN PRECI

by Silvia Matricardi

Two days ago, in a beautiful, cool but sunny Sunday afternoon, we decided to take a trip to one of the most charming hamlets in Umbria, where an interesting “Festa” is taking place: Preci.
The name comes from the Latin word preces, which means prayer; in fact in the Middle Age this land was the home of a Benedictine oratory and many were the hermits who chose to settle in this area, as they considered it particularly suitable to follow their spiritual and monastic vocation. The most important pre-Benedictine hermitage is the Abbazia di Sant’Eutizio, which was very famous until the 13th century, when Preci passed under Norcia rule.

The fame of Preci is mainly linked to the so called empirical surgeons (chirurghi empirici), people who learned the art of surgery not in the specific schools but “in action”, in the Abbey of Sant’Eutizio. It is likely that the ability monks acquired in the slaughtering and castration of sheep and swine helped them to acquire the difficult expertise of surgeons.

Preci inhabitants became experts “norcini” (pork-butchers) and surgeons and they used to hand on these crafts from fathers to sons, which turned them into models renowned all around Italy and Europe in both fields. That’s why the ancient art of “norcineria” started at the beginning of the Middle Age, at the same time of the foundation of the Scuola Chirurgica (School of Surgery) in the close Abbazia di Sant’Eutizio.

Nestled in the Val Castoriana, inside the Monti Sibillini Natinal Park, Preci is a protected area and appears to the visitors like a small and charming village, full of narrow streets and staircases which lead up to the main square. Every year during the first weekend of July the City of Preci organizes “Pane, prosciutto e fantasia” an aeno-gastronomic event dedicated to the production of the famous IGP Prosciutto (ham) of Preci.

This ham is prepared and seasoned according to a sctrict code of production rules and is characterized by a “pear” shape, by a tasty but not salty flavor, by a rosy or red color and by a typical scent, slightly spiced. The production area is limited to thos villages in Valnerina placed higher than 500 meters on the sea level, that is Preci, Norcia, Cascia, Monteleone di Spoleto and Poggiodomo.

In all the streets and beautiful squares of the historical center, where stands have been set and the castle’s cantine have been opened, you can taste and buy the local products while admiring the pearls of an evocative and intact place, so rich in important traces of Middle Age and Renaissence times.

We had a lot of fun climbing uphill in the many narrow streets, filling our stomacs and eyes with many different and delicious colors and flavors, sitting here and there to rest once in a while and watch local inhabitants repeat the gestures and actions they have been performing for ages. In fact we could also witness the performance of ancient “crafts” which have been handed on from father to son, according to old customs, like the making of bread, cheese and pork, and see the old artisans at work: the farmer, the basket-maker, the horseshoer, the miller, the ceramist, the weaver.
This is a great place also to practice fishing and during the summer it can be a very relaxing and “green” place to spend a few hours or one day at leisure.

Anyway, last Sunday the protagonist was the panino col prosciutto (ham panino): tender, tasty and fresh. With a glass of red wine or of the locally produced beer it made the perfect dinner of a cool and sunny afternoon IN Umbria.

As if we were visitors: a day with extra virgin olive oil (part one - morning)

by Silvia Matricardi

Past weekend, In Umbria, was one of those dedicated to olive. In fact, this is the time when owners of olive groves all through the region dedicate themselves to the harvesting and, immediately after, to the pressing of olives, in order to extract one of the treausres of our Region: extra virgin olive oil.
That is why, to highlight all the traditions and customs linked to this activity, almost every town and village involved in the production organizes several events.
One of these is Frantoi Aperti (Open Olive Mills).
This year, having a little more time available to nourish our passions, we decided to devote one day to ourselves, as if we were visitors coming to Umbria for the first time; we organized a day of full immersion in the activities promoted by our town, Spoleto, to celebrate the Frantoi Aperti.

In the morning we decided it would be a good idea to visit a family run olive mill, not a big or a famous one, as we were sure that by such a choice we would find an authentic athmosphere and genuine people.

The mill we visited is 10 minutes by car from Spoleto city center. A public shuttle bus organized on purpose picked us up in the city center and led us at destination; we were glad to notice that there were several tourists, a group of about 15 people: we were two of them.
The family which owns the mill has been working and harvesting olive oil since 1762, but now of course they have acquired mechanised techniques and, despite still been placed in the same old house, the production is realized with modern machinery.
A courteous lady welcomed us in a very informal and friendly way and guided us throught the different areas of the mill. She showed us how people can come to the mill, bringing their own olives and wait for the entire process to be over, then go away with their freshly squeezed extra virgin olive oil. And infact there were several farmers waiting to finish their job.

The lady showed us the process through which the olives are turned into extra virgin olive oil: the receipt and storage (no longer than 24 hours), the dumping of olives into a hopper and rolling into the mill, the removal of leaves and sprigs inside the washer, the washing in order to eliminate impurities, the grinding of the whole olives (flesh and stone) through which olives are turned into paste at a room temperature, the transferral of olive paste to the containers and malaxation (slow mixing) of olive paste, the pouring of the paste into the decanter and centrifugal extraction (drinking water is added to separate oil from vegetable water) and finally the centrifugal separation of oil from remaining water. The remaining water and paste is recycled as a fertilizer in the olive groves.

This extracting process is made at a temperature that should never go beyond 25°C and the oil that comes out has got a very bright green colour and a very strong smell. It looks delicious and it has got a bitter taste, stinging your tongue. This is a guarantee of the fact that this oil has kept all of its nutritional factors and vitamines. In fact, in order to make a very good extra virgin olive oil, with a very low acidity factor, they pick up the olives when they are not yet completely ripe and squeeze them within 24 hours at maximum.

When you visit family run olive mill you always get the chance to taste the freshly squeezed oil; and we didn’t make any exception. We were received into a warm and cosy room were a merry fire was crackling in a corner and two ladies were preparing some delicacies to be served to the guests. The athmosphere was very warm and friendly and as they served us they showed us a video about their olive grove and oil making process.

All the dishes were prepared with their freshly squeezed extra virgin olive oil, of course: haricot beans soup, chickpeas soup, lentils soup, bruschetta (of course!!) and “tozzetti” biscuits, all accompanied by a good glass of local red wine.

At the end of the visit you can buy one or two bottles of extra virgin olive oil “on the spot” or you can order some that will be sent directly to your house....or you can just step out after having lived a interesteing, lovely and genuine half-day experience.

The cemetery of Spoleto: a peaceful place

by Silvia Matricardi

Umbria is a region of peace. It is not a place of silence, but a land where the sounds of nature are loud and soft at the same time and we really enjoy listening to them.

One of the most peaceful places I know, one that I really love, is the cemetery of Spoleto.

It must be the architectural structure that makes it so charming, with its surrounding walls, the many paths that climb up the hill, with their rows of cypresses and bushes and wild roses, and also the great view of the city center.

Or, very likely, my love for this place comes from the fact that I have been coming here since a was a child, with my Mum and Dad, to visit the people I love who are no longer with us. I was never scared when I came here; on the contrary, it seemed to me as if I were entering a fairy land, full of small churches, ancient tombs, narrow paths, flowers, old pictures that tell stories of past lives, silence. I often used to sing while walking there with my parents...

I know Umbria is full of old cemeteries but I am sure none of them is like this one.

It is placed right besides the city center and yet in a secluded spot, amongst fields of olive trees, from where you can enjoy a great view of the Rocca and of the sweet hills that surround the town. It goes uphill, gently, creating different terraces of tombs which are always well kept and full of flowers and "lumini" (small lights).

On top you can find the beautiful San Salvatore Basilica, the most ancient church in Spoleto, dating back to the 4th - 5th century, with a nave and two side aisles and a semicircular apse, which still retains its early Christian atmosphere and charm.

Though a cemetery is not the first place you think of visiting when you go to a town, this one might be worth peeping in, just to get a glimpse and to taste an old-times atmosphere.

Last time I went to the cemetery it was four days ago, before All Souls' Day (Il Giorno dei Morti), in a warm sunny day, at lunch break; there were a few people working on their family tombs, preparing them for the celebration of their beloved departed. Every path, narrow street and place was neat and colourful and I could really enjoy a special moment of meditation and prayer, and love for the mankind.

Being close to the people you lost and you still love makes you feel the strength of your roots, the indissoluble bonds in your life and the joy and warmth that accompany life's promises and plans for the future.